Dec 7 (2022) Enggano— Everyone Should See It, But No One Should Visit


When I visit the remote villages of Bengkulu, I am the first White person they have seen. Being on Enggano is similar but felt different. Recently, birders have been coming here to see the 6 endemic birds—only found here. I saw all of them. However, they are only here for a short time and do not take a boat around the island or to the smaller islands nearby. Zulvan wanted me to see the remote part of Enggano owned by the government. Even though it’s not possible to share feelings, smells, sights, sounds, etc., I will do my best. Starting with a few pics of the voyage.


When we arrived, I asked where is Tattoo? Where is Mr. Roarke? Arrival was like the start of Fantasy Island minus the plane. There are waterfalls and amazing beaches and cool caves. Of course, they had no idea what I was talking about. I explained it was a TV show. We spent the day at the most beautiful beach I have ever seen.

After lunch, while Jalil (captain), Zulvan, and I were lying on our backs staring up at the ceiling of a cave next to the ocean, Zulvan told me I was the first non-Indonesian to visit there. According to the islanders this is true. Of course, there were explorers in the 1800s so they cannot absolutely prove I am the first. Just knowing I probably am is enough for me!!!

I went swimming in the most amazing place!! Mike would die if he had to get in the water here, but it was like a swimming pool. I could see everything. The pictures might look altered but they are not. Below, I share some pictures but you really get a better idea of the beauty of the place in the video. In the video, I say first American but Zulvan said first non-Indonesian (at least in modern time). This is where I went swimming. My own private pool!! Zulvan said when he goes there he always thinks it looks like the movie Blue Lagoon. I agree!!

I was walking to the beach from the boat and found these beauties—seriously, I looked down and there was Nemo and his buddies!!!! If you really want to see something amazing you need to look at the video. Zulvan watched me take the video and watched the video. He said no one will believe I took an underwater video that clear with an iPhone 13 ProMax. He said it looked like a fish tank. I worried he was right so I included the part of the video where I place the phone in the water and take it out.

This is where the fishermen spend their days. Can you imagine seeing this every day? They usually come and spend 3 days fishing. The fishermen stay under this shelter at night. To pass the time they play cards. The loser must wear dangling batteries on his ears until he wins.

Hated to leave Fantasy Island, but I was getting all burned up–even with SPF70. I thought everyone who loves beautiful beaches should see this place. Then I thought–No. No one should visit. Tourists will just mess it up like they do. Tourists would change things. I realize the business would help the people, but at the risk of changing who they are and where they live. So best to just stay away!


4 responses to “Dec 7 (2022) Enggano— Everyone Should See It, But No One Should Visit”

  1. I am so jealous! That’s an amazing island and still untouched! So happy for you!

    • Being there was really a life experience. Have you been? The island is small. I worry about the government coming in and putting in palm oil. When I was leaving 6 Koreans were on the in bound flight. My translator said they are looking for ways to make money.